NV Victoire “Brut Prestige” Champagne, France (Alcohol 12%) LCBO $39.75 (750ml)

It had been a few years since I had last tasted Champagne Victoire Prestige Brut, and revisiting it last week I was delighted to discover that it was offering such tremendous value (and pleasure) as I remember it to have previously, perhaps even more so as I was quaffing it alongside veritable bon vivant Jean-Remy Rapeneau whose family are wholly responsible for the bubbles in question.

Having been a permanent fixture on the LCBO’s General List for around a decade, it’s a great pity that Champagne Victoire is often overlooked by those in search of more recognisable labels such as Mumm, Moët, or Veuve; but this undeniably value-priced Champagne punches well above its weight, and then some.

Showing a golden-yellow hue in the glass, the medium-size-bubbled mousse is quite persistent, even after some time exposed to the air. The nose is one of lemons, limes, apples, and proving bread, the autolytic character being present but certainly not in any way dominant, with more focus on the citrus side of things. On the palate there’s loads of ripe fruit, but this is balanced out by some lovely snappy crisp green apple acidity leading through to a medium/long finish. It’s a lighter style of Champagne, that is for sure, but I see that as an extremely positive attribute as it can be devoured with considerable gusto, and what’s not to like about that?

I paired this with fish and chips at Cluny Bistro, and it it worked extremely well.

4 apples out of 5
(Four apples out of a possible five)

Victoire Champagne is represented in Ontario by The Case For Wine. The Case For Wine are a Good Food Fighter.

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Jamie Drummond

Edinburgh-born/Toronto-based Sommelier, consultant, writer, judge, and educator Jamie Drummond is the Director of Programs/Editor of Good Food Revolution… And that is truly amazing value.