2017 Trius Rosé, Ontario VQA, Canada (Alcohol 12%) LCBO, The Wine Shop, and at winery $17.95 (750ml)
A good indicator of warmer days (and nights) being just around the corner is the annual release of the rosé from Trius. This year sees one of our favourite Ontario rosés in a terrific, radically different packaging. Where the old presentation was perhaps a little too utilitarian for my tastes, this brand spanking new release comes with both a sensually curvy bottle and a winsomely pretty label, the perfect wrapping for the delights within. Whilst the Provençal-styled bottle won’t be the best friend of anyone attempting to stack these bottles on their side, perhaps this is a good thing, as this is a wine designed to be consumed not too long after bottling, so as one can enjoy it at its freshest and most vibrant. This isn’t one for any kind of cellaring!
A rather unconventional rosé blend of 52% Gamay, 27% Pinot Noir, and 21% Syrah is given four hours of skin contact before being cool-fermented in stainless steel. It’s a process that makes for a delightfully fragrant and delicately crisp, dry rosé that certainly falls more into the “gastronomic rosé” category.
Each of the three varietals brings their own personality to the party; with a little mindfulness one can pick up on the in-your-face strawberry fruitiness of the Gamay, the sensual floral perfume of the Pinot Noir, and the structure and pepper of the Syrah. On the palate this rosé is dry and crisp, with a wonderful rhubarb-like tartness that keeps you wanting more, and also makes it the perfect foil for so many dishes. I’d tend towards lighter Mediterranean fare with this one, so think a lighter Bouillabaisse, Paella, or simple grilled fish with lashings of really good Greek single grove olive oil, herbs, lemon, and salt.
On the night that GFR attended the launch party for this wine unfortunately the weather was more like Scotland that Toronto in the Spring, but looking at the long range forecast I’d say that we can look forward to some terrific warm and sunny days ahead, and many a bottle of Trius rosé being consumed. I believe that they made quite a bit in this vintage, so it could easily become your rosé of the Spring and Summer!
(Four apples out of a possible five)
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Edinburgh-born/Toronto-based Sommelier, consultant, and writer Jamie Drummond is the Director of Programs/Editor of Good Food Revolution… And yay to warmer, less-Scottish weather!