It’s a cliché of modern food writing to complain about the hard, watery and flavourless garnish that the industrially produced, traded and sold strawberry has become. Only the tomato can challenge the strawberry for worst out of season flavour.
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The first young lettuces and salad greens are showing up at Ontario’s farmers’ markets. There’s nothing quite like the pleasant bitterness of a truly fresh lettuce leaf. This simple pleasure ought, I think, be paired with the simples of dressings: a good glug of grassy olive oil, a dash of salt and squeeze of lemon.
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Cooking Baby Chard would be a pity, since Baby Chard has not yet developed the tough astringency characteristic of its parent, it can easily be eaten raw. Baby Chard is tart, pungent and slightly salty, the perfect base for a salad.
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A simple pasta dish may be concocted by sauteing green garlic in olive oil with another seasonal spring vegetable like asparagus, or dandelion leaves. Or a deliciously subtle salad dressing of slices of geen garlic left to marinade in oil for a few hours, brightened with a dash of vinegar or lemon juice compliments the first lettuces and leafy greens from Ontario’s farmers markets.
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Oceans of toxic chemicals are poured over the lawns of North America every year to kill off what could be a delicious salad. It’s not right. People are paying money to destroy food and foul-up the environment.
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Chefs and home cooks alike have been quietly bragging this week with the (relatively late) arrival of alluvium ticoccum, or “ramps”. They’re a wild woods onion that grows among hardwood stands (mostly maple) from Chicago to Montreal. I am few days into my stash (which I forage sustainably and with permission every year from a secret location on private property in Durham County) and I’ve enjoyed mine so far with scrambled eggs, a sausage and ramp pasta (with a dash of cream), and a marinade and stuffing for chicken breasts (see recipe below).
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by Malcolm Jolley Mesmerised, as I usually am, by my butcher’s refrigerated case, something...
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