By Jamie Drummond
2009 Loimer Gruner Veltliner “Trocken” Kamptal, Austria
(LCBO Vintages# 142240) $18.95
Hailing from a combination of different parcels on his biodynamic Kamptal estate, across a wide variety of soil types (loess, primary rock, gravel, sand, and clay), Fred Loimer creates an enticingly complex wine for the money. There is a wonderful enlivening bright clean-fruit freshness on the nose, coupled with support from super-ripe stone fruits, spice, a broad granular aromatic smear of minerality, and just a tiny seductive hint of the exotic. The palate is more dense than expected, rather weighty actually, with some surprising extract. The finish is really quite exquisite, and ties up this parcel of classic Kamptal perfectly.