Malcolm Jolley justs wants something different…
I don’t remember the first time I had a Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, but I do remember the second time. It must have been about fifteen years ago, and I spied one on the list at the Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar and ordered it for the table. The sommelier took note and in an expert way asked me if I knew what I was ordering without in any diminishing my dignity, something like:
Sommelier: Ah yes. This one is particularly aromatic, is that alright?
Customer trying to look cool and impress the sommelier: Excellent. They can be like that and I thought it would be fun to try something different.
The wine came. It was very aromatic, with a pronounced bouquet of roses. We all had fun. And a few years later I ended up starting this website with the sommelier, so I have a particular attachment to Lacrima. It’s an odd wine. It’s not from Alba in Piedmont, but from the Marche, where there is a middle ages fort called the Morro d’Alba near Adriatic town of Ancona. Lacrima means tear as in teardrop, and refers to the shape of this red grape that reliably makes wine that smells like roses. The 2017 Marotti Campi ‘Orgiolo‘ is no exception, but under those roses on the nose is beautiful red to blue fruit and a refreshing splash of acidity, bolstered by some firm but fine tannins and little bit of pepper on the finish. There’s a lot going on in this wine, which was awarded a coveted tre bicchieri from Gambero Rosso.
I would pair the Orgiolo with whatever your having for dinner. In the summer we tend to eat a lot of different dishes anyway, since there are so many lovely in season foods. It will go fine enough with anything that matches to a light red, but it’s really it’s own thing. After 14 months of same things, I am ready for something different, so even though this wine is more expensive than my usual recommendations, on a Friday or Saturday night, it’s certainly worth a try.