by Malcolm Jolley
There are rumours going around Toronto that the sun might once again shine upon Upper Canada. So, if and when we might see it set and the province’s loyal subjects toast our Dominion-giving Queen Victoria this weekend, we might want a reasonably priced big red wine for later-night, after dinner sipping. Helios meets Dionysus in the 2009 ‘La Granacha’ Signargues Côtes du Rhône Villages (LCBO# 82560 – $17.95). No less than the original ‘Fruit Bomber’ himself, Robert Parker Jr., gave this humble cooperative product a 90 point score, and there is really big juicy Grenadine-syrupy fuit with a back drop of spice (white pepper, mostly, I think) and scrubby, sagey garrigue. At 14.5% it ought to be handled with care (not too much for the fireworks lighter), but it’s a lot of fun, flavour and balanced character for under 20 bucks. Her Majesty’s subjects will be pleased in any event.
PS. Interestingly, this 100% Grenache (some of the vines are purportedly more than 100 years old) uses the Spanish name for the grape. Had someone involved spent time in Priorat?
Malcolm Jolley is a founding editor of Good Food Revolution and Executive Director of Good Food Media, the non-profit organization that publishes GFR. Follow him at twitter.com/malcolmjolley.
PPS. I opened the bottle I used to taste on Tuesday, took notes, poured another glass and put in the fridge. Had another glass Wednesday night. Went back again for this piece Thursday evening – strong and alive, no apparent oxydisation… what Randall Grahm calls “life force”. – MJ
This wine is interesting by the fact that all yeasts that have been used are wild and also a very very small amount of sulphur (2.5 gr per hl) has been added just before bottling and not during vinification, this wine has an extraordinary price-quality ratio.