This week we are rather proud to present an exclusive hour-long extended interview with the world’s leading authority on the wines of Bordeaux, author and Decanter magazine’s Bordeaux columnist, Jane Anson.
Jane recently published her 700 page Inside Bordeaux, and spoke to us about all manner of facets of this beloved/maligned French wine region. From the historical background of the Negociant system, through the search for new viable varietals due to the pressures of climate change, to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic upon the wine industry there, Jane shares her passion for all things Bordeaux.
Of particular interest to me is her focus upon the myriad patchwork terroirs of Bordeaux, a topic rarely touched upon in anything I have read previously…
Inside Bordeaux is available exclusively through Good Food Fighter, All The Right Grapes.
Email them here if you are interested in picking up a copy.
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The book Inside Bordeaux (and all three of the wines tasted) are represented in Canada (Ontario) by All The Right Grapes.
CHATEAU CALVIMONT, 2016 BLANC, GRAVES – $31/BTL (6 BTLS/CASE)
This second label of Château de Cérons is lightly honeyed, even though bone dry. It has a soft, ripe texture with yellow fruits as well as a streak of good acidity. The perfumed Sauvignon Gris adds attractiveness. A classic blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignon Gris.
Château Calvimont is the second-label of the regal Château de Cérons. Cérons is famous for its sweet wines (it is the next town north of Barsac); this label represents their effort to produce quality dry wines for a very fair price.
CHATEAU LAGRAVE PARAN, 2012 BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR – $31/BTL (6 BTLS/CASE)
Dark dusty garnet color. Rustic aromas of leather saddle, hay barn, beets, kalamata olive, dried cherries, peach scone, and autumn leaves with a round, vibrant, dry-yet-fruity medium-to-full body and a smooth, compelling, medium-length dried fig, black pepper, and chocolate raspberry fudge finish with crunchy tannins. A tasty and crowd-pleasing Bordeaux for any time. Th e 2012 ‘Cuvée Géraldine’ instantly opens to aromas of dark fruits, damp soil and roasted coffee with hints of tar and hints of wet stones. On the palate this offers a gorgeous medium-plus body with beautifully polished, nicely integrated tannins and a lush mouthfeel. This shows a lovely combination of fruit and acidity with is underlined by a mineral streak through the long finish. This is drinking remarkably well now, but should also hold up a few more years in the cellar.
A great little estate that is based in the Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux, between the two rivers. Only 8 acres of land but all carefully tended to in order to produce some lively and highly concentrated wines that always punch above their weight.
CHATEAU CHANTELUNE, 2015 MARGAUX – $82/BTL (6 BTLS/CASE)
The 2015 Château Chantelune brings aromas and flavors black cherries, sweet, cassis, tobacco, spices, pain grille and some caramel notes. This shows nice balance and the tannins are soft and silky right into the finish. This doesn’t have the structure and depth of last years fantastic bottling, but it is more approachable and very delicious. An elegant wine that is given weight by its rich black fruits and style by the balance between tannins and acidity. There is a fresh character to this bright and fruity wine at this stage. Give it 4–5 years and it will begin to develop secondary aromas.
This tiny Margaux vineyard is owned by José Sanfins, wine-maker of Château Cantenac Brown. Only1.38ha of Garonnaise gravel. A personal project that handsomely over delivers.
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Edinburgh-born/Toronto-based Sommelier, consultant, writer, judge, and educator Jamie Drummond is the Director of Programs/Editor of Good Food Revolution… And he’s extremely happy with the way things turned out with this.