2019 Finca Decero “Remolinos Vineyard” Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina (Alcohol 14%, Residual Sugar 2 g/l) LCBO Vintages $22.95 (750ml bottle)

With the 2019 Decero Remolinos (read: whirlwind) vineyard, we find another appealing Argentinean Malbec with that elusive violet floral edge that I have come to crave.

The bouquet here is surprisingly complex and layered, with a forward freshness that’s inherent to higher-altitude fruit sources such as the single vineyard here. Think dark damsons alongside ripe red cherries, with a hit of warm oak spice from 14 months ageing in French cooperage. A gentle basket pressing of the fruit ensures we don’t need to worry about harsh tannins from over-extraction.

At 1,050m (3,500 ft) above sea level, the high mountain alluvial and colluvial (rich in the rarely-found montmorillonite clay) soils -with prolific deposits of dissolved calcium carbonate in the silt- bring a distinctive mineral element to the smooth, silky palate, with fine, supple tannins and a marked raspberry-like acidity. The extended finish echoes both the subtle wood spice from the nose and the minerals found on the palate.

With this kind of structural makeup, the wine is promising longevity that could extend into the decades, all of which makes it a serious value cellar-dweller if you have the patience. Saying all that, with a decent decant, this elegant wine is drinking incredibly well right now despite its relative youth. I decided to pour it into a glass decanter two hours before dinner, and that did the job nicely.

I served this alongside a Bavette (flank) steak and frites, but I feel it would do a grand job served with all manner of grilled meats.

(Four out of a possible five apples)


Finca Decero wines are represented in Ontario by Icon Vins Fins.

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