2019 Therianthropy “Bonnie Vivant”, St. David’s Bench VQA, Niagara, Ontario, Canada (Alcohol 12%, Residual Sugar 3.2 g/L) The Living Vine or Therianthropy website $29.95 (750ml bottle)

I’ve already expressed my admiration of the winecrafting skills of a certain David Eiberg, although I’ve still to meet, taste with the man, and conduct an interview for Good Food Revolution; COVID-19 kind of stymied my plans for that… saying that, there’s always Zoom!

As my old pal Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon infamy once professed, “minerality is life force”, and this wine certainly has vibrancy and vitality in spades, a palpable life force, if you will.

Once poured, the evolution of this wine in the glass is utterly spellbinding, literally shapeshifting before your eyes, nose, and palate. One moment one is in Chablis (as the Winemaker cheerfully notes in his musings), and 30 minutes later one is transported to the Jura. It’s a truly fascinating experience that appealed to my senses unlike any other Chardonnay I have tasted this year, and I’ve tasted a fair few in the last 12 months.

The bouquet sleepily meanders around between orchards of ripe pears, apples, and peaches, then time traveling back to the blossoming of florals; bonnie it certainly is.

Firm acidity gives structure to the beautifully ripe St. David’s Bench fruit in the mouth, with a defined mineral edge that extends out into the seemingly neverending finish.

Pour yourself a chilled glass, and observe in wonder as this nascent sleeping beauty comes to life as it slowly warms up. Very good indeed, and utterly charming in every which way.

(four and a half apples out of a possible five)

Therianthropy are represented in Ontario by The Living Vine.

The Living Vine are a Good Food Fighter.

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Edinburgh-born/Toronto-based Sommelier, consultant, writer, judge, and educator Jamie Drummond is the Director of Programs/Editor of Good Food Revolution… And he needs to do an interview with this Winemaker!