2009 Peter Lehmann “Futures” Shiraz/Muscadelle, Barossa, Australia LCBO Vintages# 301309 $24.95
It really does say something about a wine when one brings it to a trés chi-chi dinner party attended by some the city’s most influential tastemakers (thanks again Shinan) and, once opened and left on the kitchen island, said bottle lasts all of five minutes. This of course means that one has to actually go out an purchase another bottle in order to give it a proper appraisal in the comfort of one’s own home.
Back in the days when Peter Lehmann were a substantially smaller operation than they are today, the “Futures” wines were made especially for sale to friends and family of the winery (read: willing micro-investors). Sold on a give-us-your-dosh-now-and-we’ll-give-you-the-juice-in two-years basis, the Futures provided the fledgling Lehmann operation with some much needed cashflow.
This particular bottling is made up of a rather unusual combination of the ubiquitous Shiraz with the rarely seen Muscadelle, the oft-forgotten third white varietal of Bordeaux. This unlikely co-ferment, pioneered by Lehmann in the 1960’s, brings about a wine that surprises and delights.
The Muscadelle provides the dark, ripe, and savoury Barossa Shiraz fruit with a lifted aromatic profile that is reminiscent of peach tree blossoms and exotic, musky spice. There’s also a tangible silky, slipperiness on the palate that one would normally find on some of the better Shiraz/Viognier co-ferments. This winning combination means that the wine stands head and shoulders above other Shiraz at this particular price point. If this is an example of the “new” Australia then I’m all for it!
Edinburgh-born/Toronto-based Sommelier, consultant, writer, judge, and educator Jamie Drummond is the Director of Programs/Editor of Good Food Revolution… And he has to tell you that this wine was the hidden gem of a recent Toronto Sommelier tasting session… rave reviews from some of the city’s very best palates.