Malcolm Jolley finds a Sangiovese from outside of Tuscany.

Expoert manager Valentina Davide of Noelia Ricci wines.

The Italian food and wine magazine Gambero Rosso came to Toronto this month and organized a tasting of of wines that have achieved their heralded “Tre Bicchieri” award. One of these wines, represented in Ontario by The Vine agency, is the Romagna Sangiovese Superiore DOCG Godenza 2014 from Noelia Ricci. It was poured for me, as well as its sibling wine, the Romagna Sangiovese Superiore DOCG 2015 ‘Vespa’. Godenza is the name of a specific vineyard, and the Noelia Ricci label is sourced from a prized 7 hectares of vineyards belonging to Villa Pandolfo. The two Sangiovese were remarkable, and defied my expectations of the grape, as I know it when it’s vinified in Tuscany. The wines have a delicacy and elegance as well as a youthful vibrancy full of red fruit flavours. Apparently, there is some thought that Sangiovese may have originated in Romagna by the Adriatic sea. Whatever the origin of the grape, it certainly feels at home in a Noelia Ricci bottle. At under $30 a bottle the Il Sangiovese is a great deal, and is available by consignment from The Vine. Barring that, look for it on the wine lists of Toronto’s oenophilic Italian restuarants.