Having not travelled since a good few months before the pandemic, it’s taking me a while to become acclimatised to being on-the-road as a writer again.
I discover myself choosing to keep some distance from fellow international wine-scribes, preferring the company of my iPad instead of falling into the default soused raconteur of days (years!) past. A shy, retiring, reserved, and, for the greater part, sober Jamie Drummond; what a novel concept, if a little bromidic.
After a slow start, we leave from under the rumbling aircraft-laden skies of Catania, travelling by bus to the Animaetnea winery, a relatively short journey of just over an hour.
It was there we were met by Amedo Moretti Cuseri, who proceeded to explain his Tuscan family’s forays into winemaking in Sicily, something that appears to be a bit of a trend these days.
Mount Etna is rather daunting in person, it has to be said, and it appears we’ll be getting even closer to the craters on Day 3 of our tour.
The evening was spent at Tenuta di Fessina, nestled amongst some older Nerello Mascalese vines, and it was there we were hosted by the charming Jacapo Maniaci who gave us a fascinating insight into the wines of the region.
Mount Etna viewed from the Animaetnea tasting room, Northern Etna.
Animaetnea’s Amedo Moretti Cuseri welcomes us to the region and gives us a potted history of the winery previously known as Santo Spirito.
Aged Nerello Mascalese vines in the terraced vineyards around the tasting room at Animaetnea. Some “pre-Phylloxera”.
Aged Nerello Mascalese vines in the terraced vineyards around the tasting room at Animaetnea.
Tasting at Animaetnea.
Tasting at Animaetnea.
Looking towards the summit of Mount Etna. The snow one can see here fell only 11 days ago. The ridge of lava here, without vegetation, is from the last major eruption some 200 years ago.
Tenuta di Fessini CEO/partner Jacapo Maniaci introduces the terroir.
The sun sets over the old plots of Nerello Mascalese at Tenuta di Fessina, Northern Etna.
Tenuta di Fessini CEO/partner Jacapo Maniaci surveys his 1921 Nerello Mascalese vines with Theodore the dog.
Tenuta di Fessini CEO/partner Jacapo Maniaci surveys his 1921 Nerello Mascalese vines with Theodore the dog.
1921 Nerello Mascalese vines at Tenuta di Fessini, Northern Etna.
In the barrel cellar at Tenuta di Fessina. All French, 300l, 500l, 700l, and 3,500l cooperage.
Trying to understand the importance of lateral or mono-genetic rater eruptions around Etna.
Veal tartare at Tenuta di Fessina.
Tuna in a tomato sauce at Tenuta di Fessina.
Anchovies, butter, and lemon at Tenuta di Fessina.
Roasted cauliflower at Tenuta di Fessina.
Tempura aubergine at Tenuta di Fessina.
Tuna pasta with toasted breadcrumbs at Tenuta di Fessina.
