But l’apero, is not quite a cocktail, and at 17% alcohol by volume two icy glasses of Lillet do not pose the same danger as two generously poured Martinis. One drinks an aperitif like Lillet in expectation of the wine that will come with dinner; it’s simply a small kickstart to a full evening’s gustatory programming, like the olives, charcuterie or other hors d’oeuvres with which it might be served as a prelude to whatever meal the evening holds.

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