by Kelly Jones
âVery down to earth, unpretentious, straightforward; doing a lot with a little, making the most of a lot.â
These are the carefully chosen words that Jeff Connell gives me describe the meaning behind the moniker Woodlot, a restaurant and all-day bakery he opened with partners Robyn Donio and chef David Haman (ex-Luce, Lucien, Czehoski, and Cookstown Greens) in November. âThereâs a connection with countryside implied there too, which we feel very, very strongly about.â
There are a lot of adjectives in that explanationâand that, I come to discover, is a lot of words for Jeff, who doesnât waste many.
Jeff comes to Woodlot from St. Johnâs Bakery. We talked a few mornings ago in front of Woodlotâs wood-burning, brick-lined oven, the hot-as-hell hub of the open kitchen in the garage-like space that was once Octapus Lounge on Palmerston just south of College.
I canât think of another restaurant in this city that has the same split-level set-up, with the dining area up on the mezzanine (which itself is stacked on top of the space allotted for pulling coffee shots and displaying baked goods). It has a full view of the kitchen, prep area, and a single communal table near the door. To sit in one of the 54 seats on the mezzanine and watch the action below is like enjoying a front row balcony view of a great play.
Itâs at once rustic and cozy, with lots of wood features, rough edges, and tea lights. And it smells like campfire and coffee and baking bread. Tell me, could anything be better?
Chef David Hamanâs two short menus (one for vegetarians, one for carnivores) are as simple and bucolic as the atmosphere, and they divide into starters, middles, and mains.
âDavid is very, very thoughtful,â says Jeff slowly and surely as he brushes a dusting of flour from his arm. âHeâs given the menu a lot of thought, a lot of study. [He worked hard] to develop this menu . . . We donât change the menu on any kind of schedule. It just has a natural alternation about it, as availability comes and goes.â
This week you might start with a braised lamb tart appetizer with Ruth Klahsen’s Toscano cheese, braised greens, cauliflower cream, and mache lettuce, then follow it up with chop of whey-fed pork with caramelized apple, black walnuts, and sage. On the vegetarian menu, perhaps a red fife whole-wheat pappardelle middle dish with wild mushrooms, caramelized onions and Madeiera, then a braised tempeh pie with fall roots, cipollini onions, and vegetable gravy. (Note to self: Next time, donât write about Woodlot on an empty stomach. Growl.) If these descriptions arenât enough to tempt you, perhaps knowing that portions are generous and prices are reasonable will do the trick. Itâs no wonder that reservations here are hard to come by.
âThe menu with meat on it is certainly the most popular,â adds Jeff, âalthough we find that meat-eaters are very pleased with the vegetarian menu.â He pauses. I wait. âItâs not only for vegetarians. First of all, [meat-eaters] have friends who are vegetarian, so theyâre happy that they can come here without worrying about whether something is going to be properly prepared for them. Also, it sort of augments the menu for meat-eaters.â
So whatâs Woodlotâs view on sourcing ingredients? With plates so simple, the quality has got to be paramount.
âWeâve been in touch with many local growers for years, and we feel well-connected with top quality. We donât feel itâs an either-or [local or best] situation; we think that we can find the best locally. Itâs not a dogma. It seems like the natural way of going about it.â
Woodlot
293 Palmerston Avenue
647-342-6307
Closed Mondays
Kelly Jones is a freelance writer and editor. She teaches Food Writing at George Brown College.
What a wonderful place to go and dine with all your friends. I have friends who are non meat eaters and this is perfect.
Very excited to dine here with my vegetarian BF đ