A most enjoyable morning tasting through the wines of Rioja’s Baron de Ley with Sergio Soriano.

When one looks at some of the vibrantly pure, fruit-focused Riojas of today and compares them to the dusty, tired, dried-out Riojas of yesteryear, the difference is night and day.

I can vividly remember studying for my WSET diploma in the UK, mid 90s, and tasting an extensive flight of old school Riojas. I found myself wondering what on earth all the fuss was about, as there was so little enjoyment to be found in any of them, and yet we were told that these were some of the true classic wines of Spain.

Sure, there is a place for that more traditional, bretty, heavily American-oaked style, but I’m interested who would ever choose them over some of the stunning modern examples from this most famed of Iberian wine regions?

With this in mind, we recently sat down with Sergio Soriano of Rioja’s Baron de Ley to discuss such matters, and exactly where his relatively nascent house fits into the grand scheme of things.

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Baron de Ley are represented in Ontario by Hobbs and Co.Wine Merchants.
Hobbs and Co are a Good Food Fighter.
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Jamie Drummond

Edinburgh-born/Toronto-based Sommelier, consultant, writer, judge, and educator Jamie Drummond is the Director of Programs/Editor of Good Food Revolution… And he’s just tired of drinking dirty wine.