2011 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy – LCBO Vintages $29.95
As one of the oldest DOCs and as the very first DOCG to go on sale, it’s always surprising to me that Tuscany’s Vino Nobile di Montepulciano doesn’t get a little more loving than it does, and it does occasionally concern me that some confuse it with the grape varietal Montepulciano, an entirely different thing altogether.
Poliziano’s 2011 bottling is a blend of 85% Prugnolo Gentile (a specific clone of Sangiovese) as well as 15% Colorino, Canaiolo, and Merlot, fermented in stainless and then aged for 14 – 16 months in (20% new) French oak barrique, tonneaux, and traditional large casks. The resultant wine is one that could comfortably cellar for a decade, but with a good decant will sit well at the dinner table today… always a good thing in my mind.
The bouquet is most expressive, but will go on to develop fully with time. Last month it was showing classic dark berry fruit, damson, and cherry, with nuances of fennel, spice, and chocolate. The palate was assertive and structured with a sophisticated mouthfeel aided and abetted by some fine-grained tannins, ending in a long, extended finish. The new oak is there but barely perceptible due to some superb integration with the rest of the package. Really rather excellent.
Edinburgh-born/Toronto-based Sommelier, consultant, writer, judge, and educator Jamie Drummond is the Director of Programs/Editor of Good Food Revolution… And if you enjoy the more structured side of Italian wines, then this may well be just the wine for you.