By Jamie Drummond
2009 Kendall Jackson “Summation – Vintner’s Reserve” California (LCBO Vintages #210195) $19.95
Somewhere along the line, North American wine drinkers changed their viewpoint on multi-grape blends and thankfully now embrace such bottlings without the suspicions they previously did.
Here Winemaking Head Honcho Randy Ullom works his wonders on a special selection of Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay, Semillon, Roussane, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, and Muscat Canelli to create a most interesting wine that works well as both a “drinking wine” and a wine that one can have quite a lot of fun pairing with food. I often find that such blends can be a little cloying and lacking acidically, but this example has the sufficient nervous tension to bring a refreshing bite to what could have easily become a fruit salad.
It is testament to Randy’s winemaking skills that he can pull a wine like this off with such panache. Each varietal is at once identifiable, and yet the blend is cohesive, a tricky balancing act that is no doubt something to do with the fruit being sourced from vineyards from Mendocino in the north to Santa Barbara County in the south.
In summation: this wine is certainly something a little different, and will work well for fans of exotically perfumed viogniers and sauvignon blancs. It is frighteningly drinkable and one may be quite surprised at just how easily this slips down.
Edinburgh-born/Toronto-based Sommelier, consultant, writer, judge and educator Jamie Drummond is the Director of Programs/Editor of Good Food Revolution… and he is buying up all the Summation he can find.