2014 Peller Estates “Signature Series” Sauvignon Blanc, Niagara-On-The-Lake VQA, Ontario (Alcohol 13.5%) Winery/Online $30.20
I’ve been following the evolution of this particular wine since its inception many vintages ago, and can safely say that the 2014 is the best yet, and simply one of the best expressions of Sauvignon Blanc currently coming out of Ontario.
In tasting this blind I’ve had a group of experienced tasters imagine this wine coming from all parts of the globe, but perhaps that speaks to its multi-layered complexities more than anything else.
The fruit on both the nose and palate is astonishingly ripe, giving the wine a decidedly opulent character that may fox the palates of those wine drinkers who expect their Sauvignon Blancs to be a little more monochromatic. This wine certainly isn’t subtle, but it carries its inherent richness and weight with considerable aplomb.
A portion of the wine was fermented with native yeast, and this adds considerable aromatic nuances to the floral, boxwood, apricot, and pear scented bouquet. There’s a definite whiff of spicy, toasty French oak in there too, but it sits perfectly in line with all that gorgeous ripe fruit. Speaking of oak, 80% of the wine sees 12 months of lees contact in French cooperage, with the remainder spending the same in concrete eggs. Texturally it’s obvious that all that time on lees paid off as the wine’s mouthfeel is as exuberant, luscious, and satisfying as the initial nose is mouth-watering. In my mind it’s a Winemaker-driven wine, but when the end result is this good I’m certainly not complaining.
Serve a little warmer than you’d usually serve your whites to allow the bouquet to really come into its own. What with the wine being as complex as it is, I’d suggest you serve it alongside rich, cream-sauced poultry or fish, with a handful of tarragon.
(Four and a half apples out of a possible five)
Edinburgh-born/Toronto-based Sommelier, consultant, writer, judge, and educator Jamie Drummond is the Director of Programs/Editor of Good Food Revolution… And this certainly gives the Bordelais a run for their money.